Even with the popularity of fruity-floral scents, kumquats still make an appearance on our plates far more often than in our perfume bottles. Creed Love in White Plants take from five to seven years to flower abundantly, with up to 60 flowers on a single plant but that makes for a pricy ingredient. Artemisia refers to a large family of aromatic plants think: mugwort (moxa, in Chinese medicine), tarragon and wormwood. Christian Dior Sakura "These vanilla 'beans' are aged and then extracted to make an infusion or an absolute which is used in flavors and fragrances to impart its unique creamy sweetness. Closer to home, this annual (a member of the mint family) grows up to three ft./almost a metre high, and the oils derived from the paper-thin leaves leaves. Our favourite lilac legend, though, is that the deep floral fragrance was believed in Celtic cultures to transport humans into fairyland and the spiritual world. Through a process of fractionation separating the different elements of an individual ingredient, and removing the potential sensitiser its possible to get an ingredient thats much closer to the oakmoss we know and loved. Maybe it is because it brings together the etherealpleasure of scent and the down-to-earth joy of pampering our bodywith food. (It helps to repel insects even though bees love it, on the plant.) Says 'nose' Julie Mass: 'I use cassis to give a delicious, moreish touch. In rituals, sandalwood oil may be applied to the forehead, the temples, or rubbed between the eyebrows. You can smell scents featuring ink on their fragrance pyramid and be right back there in the classroom, getting a whiff from your inky fingers. (Those seeds are also chewed, in countries like Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, to freshen the breath.). Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka Iris, or orris, has lent its sweetness to perfumery for centuries as far back as Ancient Rome and Greece, or perhaps even beyond. In perfume, it features as a fantasy note, to conjure up mystery and danger. Off-screen, this flowering plant flourishes further afield than the European alps, where its a protected species: edelweiss is nowadays most commonly found in Javanese mountain regions. Serge Lutens Chne. The essential oil itself is produced from the fruits skin: you get a hint of how this happens when you tear into a mandarin, and the oil scents your hands. Guerlain Jicky Certainly a note that makes our heart beat a little faster, when we smell it. They like slow-moving or still water: lakes, or the edges of rivers, and there are dozens of different varieties all beautiful, and all short-lived: each flower blooms, closes at night, and lasts for just a few days. (This note is also sometimes called American balsam, or even opobalsam.) ChloLove, ChloEau Florale Thierry Mugler Angel Stand in a bluebell wood, close your eyes and a delicate, green-floral haze will envelop and delight you: thats what perfumers who work with bluebell are trying to recreate. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur Chanel No. Can anyone whos not a trained nose tell the difference between this and an actual peach? Yves Saint Laurent LHomme. linden, or Tilia cordata) almost seems to drip with honey. Lancme Miracle Intense Best Vegan Layering Perfume: Dedcool MILK. Sensitising cinnamal, potential allergen. (Plus the fougre family, which is mostly mens scents. Cartier Dlices de Cartier 'When you smell it, you can almost feel it smarting on your tongue'. Leather and perfumery go way back together, meanwhile. As well as featuring widely in soliflores (so-called single note fragrances, which are often actually a lot more complex than that), lily of the valley works its magic in many other fragrances, used to open up and freshen the other floral notes in a blend as a clever writer on the Perfume Shrine blog puts it, much like we allow fresh air to come into contact with a red wine to let it breathe and bring out its best. 5 The fern most widely used in perfumery is the Common Male Fern, which grows widely in Britain and the rest of Europe. Cartier Baiser Vol Este Lauder Knowing Here's what perfumerSarah McCartneyhas to say about this ingredient: 'I bought opoponax at first just for the name. But did you know that licorce is used in love spells? (Although eugenol is also produced synthetically, nowadays.) Este Lauder Youth Dew The odor profile of this multifaceted material includes sweet fresh hay notes along with blond tobacco and soft, creamy nut-like nuances," says perfumer Gwen Gonzalez. Explore which ingredients we select - and avoid. Le Labo Fleur dOrange 27 (And read here about beeswax, which also makes its way into fragrances.) Davidoff Cool Water Woman Aveda Chakra 6 Intuition Petit-what? Les Couvent de Minimes Eau de Mtines (Thats because it also helps digestion, as well as enhancing flavours. Its seriously low-maintenance: the name rosemary comes from the Latin for dew (ros) and sea (marinus), because all it needs is the humidity of a sea breeze to flourish. Versace Crystal Noir. Ortigia Sicilia Orange Blossom Antonias Flowers Floret But in the hands of a gifted perfumer? Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatale Just threw that in because you never know when it might come in useful in Trivial Pursuit, someday). Fragrances can be leathery but its not really essence-of-leather in that bottle, as Andy Tauer explains below. Hugo Boss Boss Woman, A wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft, luminous and sensual all at once. Diptyque LEau de Tarocco Caron Tabac Blond works nicely as long as you dont mind its lack of commitment', STORIES N.02 Bougie Parfume Scented Candle Trio, STORIES N.01 Bougie Parfume Scented Candle Trio, We save your email and cart so we can send you reminders -, 4160 Tuesdays Another Kiss by the Fireside, 4160 Tuesdays Midnight in the Palace Garden, 4160 Tuesdays The Dark Heart of Old Havana, 4160 Tuesdays The Sexiest Scent on the Planet. Juicy Couture Peace, Love & Juicy Couture Fragonard Citron But flax has also been used in perfumery as long ago as Egyptian times, as a base note mildly nutty in character. (And theyre in good company: Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles were early habitus of this now world-famous bar, with its strangely low seats and tables that almost make you feel youre at a dolls tea party.) Chanel Coco Noir Dolce & Gabbana The One (Close your eyes, bite a blueberry open and inhale before popping one in your mouth, next time.). (And its used in spells for beauty!) Widely used in cooking, too, in south-east Asia and perhaps most famously, to flavour chai - its slightly camphorous properties work to freshen breath. The history of incense itself goes back thousands of years in fact, the first perfumes were burned, not worn: perfume actually gets its name from per fumum, or through smoke. Lady Gaga Fame You may not know the name but youve certainly smelled this key ingredient in fresh fragrances, and especially Colognes something of the sweetness of neroli (orange blossom) - but also woody, fresh, green and maybe a touch bitter, with a slightly masculine edge. FragranceWomen. Yves Saint Laurent Paris. Dior JAdore LOr Flower of fertility, in ancient times and a cure, too: garlands of violets worn around the head were thought to prevent headaches and dizziness, while in ancient Athens, they drank wine scented with violets. "The aroma of this material is a softly enveloping balsamic, woody sweetness with citrus, spicy fresh inflections. A woody evergreen, rosemary has super-fragrant needle-like leaves, and white, purple, blue or pink flowers, depending on the variety. This aromatic resin is highly prized and heartwood from infected trees can cost as much as $100,000 per kilo. (Its still widely used in religious rites, across different cultures and has become very widespread in our homes, in the form of burning sticks and joss-sticks.). Its derived from a tree in Central and South America (Copaifera officinalis) and acts as a base note and fixative. Its burned today in Catholic churches and Anglican high church ceremonies and perhaps as a result, its a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, depending on whether you were forced to sit through endless sermons and hymns on Sundays. Onefine day I will buy a few kilos of real raspberry extract, though, and make my ultimate fruity Tauer. But its often also synthesised, adding a spicy warmth to Ambres (and quite a few mens scents). Through history, peony was known for its medicinal powers, and in Traditional Chinese Medicine its still used to treat night sweats, injuries and stomach pains. When I take the lid off and sniff, I cant help letting out a long appreciative mmmmmmmmm. This is also sometimes known as The Honolulu Queen Flower; the large, short-lived flowers of the cactus-like plant bloom for just six hours, opening in the evening and closing by dawn. Cartier Cartier de Lune Cranberries and blackberries have similar aroma chemicals, but mostly, perfumers turn to one of two synthetics to recreate raspberry-ness: frambonine or raspberry ketone (which can also be used as a raspberry flavouring). Cashmeran also works to expand and diffuse floral ingredients. Mostly, its used in eastern and ambre perfumes, chypres and fougres but pops up in one very famous fragrance (see below). Ambrette seeds are probably one of my preferred ingredients because of their soft animalic character, and warm nutty milk undertones. The actual aroma compound is known as ethyl maltol: its softness almost melts into floral notes, delivering a flirty, playful femininity, as well as depth and intrigue. 1 Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Amazingly, this grey-leafed toughie gives off a lovely, almost straw-like sweet scent, with hints of honey, tea, rose and chamomile - giving a flowery sweetness to perfumes, Goutal ParisSables Subtler and greener than many fruits, wed say it was almost made to be garlanded by white flowers, for a spring-like touch. Paul & Joe Blanc. Chanel No. The crunchy bits we like to eat arent much use to perfumers but the earthily-scented oil harvested from the seed is: restricted from using oakmoss in its natural form, because of sensitisation issues, celery seed oil actually comes pretty close. Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade In ancient Arabic perfumery, basil was known as the king of the fragrant plants. Melt your beeswax and oil together (determine the specific amounts of wax and oil based on the container you plan to use) and add 10 to 12 drops of essential oil per tablespoon of oil or beeswax mixture. That could be heliotrope, too. (Say it foo-jair, with the j a little soft almost foo-shair.) (Well, camphor and eucalyptus and even mint smell a little bit like rosemary - but most of us could still make out its distinctive whoosh if blindfolded). In fact, its what Guerlains in-house nose Thierry Wasser used to plug a hole in a new, fractionated oakmoss note, to make it smell just like the original and so, return the legendary Mitsouko to its former glory. I described it recently as having the consistency of molasses, but theyd never heard of molasses either so lets say its like incense treacle. 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